The Pickled Radish, Cardiff – review

Every year I have the dreaded task of choosing where to go for my birthday meal (FWPs). Finding the balance of somewhere reasonably priced, to everyone’s taste and flipping lush is harder than you’d think. Then Grandma doesn’t like fish so that just throws a whole extra spatula in the works. But The Pickled Radish really tickled my fancy – and by the end of the meal it was tickling everyone else’s too.

The pig box was a fun little number – a trio of honey and wholegrain mustard Cumberland sausages, pigs cheek nuggets and crispy pigs skin served in a little wooden crate. Most people are suckers for anything that doesn’t come on a plate, but I think there is huge risk of appearing gimmicky if it’s all about the packaging and not about the food. Luckily, this one was definitely all about the food.

Then the lamb was absolutely as it should be. Pink, piquant salty skin, with crispy creamy potato gratin – which was also peppered with pulled lamb – and smoked garlic jus. Followed by douce chocolate with a hint of Halen Mon and a full bodied, but slightly gritty, chocolate espresso sorbet on the side.

Each option had enough twist and Welsh nods to make you go ‘ooo’, yet the menu had substance and delivered on all fronts – fur coat, and there were definitely knickers beneath.

My eat of the week

  • Pig box: crispy pig skin sticks, toffee pear chutney, honey and mustard glazed Cumberland’s, pig’s cheek nuggets & aioli – £7
  • Llantwit lamb rump, pulled lamb potato gratin, confit onion and white bean puree, heritage carrots, spinach, smoked garlic jus – £18.20
  • Chocolate and Halen mon caramel, marquise, pistachio, chocolate espresso sorbet – £7.40

Cheapest main

  • Buttermilk chicken burger: chicken breast in crispy herb crumb, apple slaw, rocket, chill mayo, brioche bun – £12.20

Most expensive main

  • 10oz Llantwit rib eye, garlic roasted field mushroom, roasted cherry vine tomatoes and watercress – £20.80
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