Wright’s natural wine supper at Street Food Circus – review

Street Food Circus was bigger and better this year with the introduction of pop-up dining events brought by guest exhibitors – Wright’s Food Emporium being one of them. I’ve wanted to go to Wright’s for years, but have never quite made it down West as far as Carmarthen and, besides, the natural wine supper at Street Food Circus seemed like a good way to spend a Thursday evening.

We were around 30 covers cosied on communal benches inside the Milgi tent and Simon Wright himself welcomed the evening with an introduction to natural wine. I won’t pretend to know anything at all about natural wine, or regular wine for that matter, but what I did learn was that it’s pretty much what it says on the label. It’s made without adding or removing anything during the wine making process. No pesticides or herbicides allowing the vines to grow in a completely natural environment, and with no or little post-harvest manipulation in the form of added sugars, additives or filtration. What does this mean for the flavour? Greater variety – and wine which is truly reflective of its region and climate.

We tasted 7 wines, ranging from a bodacious beaujolais from Marcel Lapierre (my fave of the evening), a sexy pink Loire Valley grolleau gris with natural fizz from Agnes and Rene Mosse, and, not-for-the-faint-hearted, a complex vermouth from Mauro Vergano.

And finally, we got a flavour of Wright’s. Simple, no-fuss, quality ingredients. Among the best of it were rare slices of roast beef with tonnato (a tangy tuna/mayonnaise sauce), which went down well to start, and the Naples-style meatball dish was probably some of the best comfort food I’ve had for a long time. We weren’t quite able to finish a gi-normous hunk of ginger cake with butterscotch sauce, but bloody hell it was good. Definitely going to be booking a table at Wright’s next time I’m in Carmarthen.

We ate by candle light, so excuse the grainy photos.

My eat of the week

Wright’s Natural Wine Supper at Street Food Circus – £45 pp

  • Rare roast beef tonnato
  • Coppa and celeriac remoulade
  • Panzanella
  • Cardigan Bay crab linguine
  • Naples-style meatballs
  • Dorstone
  • Ginger cake and butterscotch sauce
  • Agnes & Rene Mosse, Moussamousettes, grolleau gris, Gamay, Loire
  • Lapierre, raisins gaulois, Gamay, Beaujolais
  • Cascina Degli Ulivi, Bellotti Bianco, Cortese, Tassarolo, Piemonte
  • Jean-Christophe Comor, L’Apostrophe Rose, Cinsault, Carignan, Grenache, Provence
  • Bruno Duchene, La Luna, Grenache, Banyuls
  • Podere Santa Maria, Toscana, Bianco, Ansonica, Montalcino
  • Mauro Vergano Bianco Vermouth, Piemonte
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